Donetsk

 


Donetsk is a city of a million and a half in the eastern part of Ukraine.  This is a part of the Russian lands given to the Ukrainian Republic by Nikita Khrushchev in the 1950s.  The ethnically Russian people who live there do not feel a close kinship with the ethnic Ukrainians in the west and want to keep strongly tied to Mother Russia.  This east-west division was a major factor in the 2004 presidential elections, for instance.

Donetsk is the major city in the Donbas basin, one of the largest coal regions of the Soviet Union.  Most of the mines are played out but, rather than closing the mines, they would just go deeper and deeper.  As a result, these are some of the most dangerous mines in the world.  Much of this coal was exported to the Soviet Union by wire in the form of electricity.  Donetsk was also an industrial region, with lots of steel plants and manufacturing. 

To see an enlargement of each picture, just click on it.




donetsk sign
 
hospital
Welcome to Donetsk.

A referral hospital specializing in trauma.



monut
urban private house
A monument on a bluff overlooking the city.  The barriers are to keep people away -- it is disintegrating and too dangerous to get near.

Typical private home.  There are no home builders -- these have to be constructed by family and friends, possibly with the help of moonlighting construction workers.  About 25% of urban housing is private (on land owned by the state) and about 75% of rural housing is private.



misha's house
 
apaent building in donetsk
Entrance to a typical low-rise apartment complex.

Typical high-rise.  Note the tiles falling off the exterior.  The sidewalk below is littered with them.



apartment complex
nom park
Apartment complex on the outskirts of town.

The nomenklatura (the elite of the Communist Party and government) live very differently.  This is the district they live in.  There are fountains, playgrounds, and luxurious homes.



nom house

refuse piles
One of the houses of the nomenklatura.  It's enormous, perhaps 5,000 square feet.

Refuse piles from mines inside the city limits.  There were 106 of these and most were burning from spontaneous combustion, adding to a serious pollution problem there.



refuse with flowers
dept store
Coal refuse piles.

A department store.



shoe dept
stacks
The shoe department in the department store.

Industry along the shores of the Black Sea south of Donetsk.



light tower

broom lady
Tennis court lighting.  The Soviets like to do it big.

You see women with brooms like this everywhere.  When it wears out, just collect a new bundle of twigs and sweep on!



tennis court
trolley
Clay tennis courts.  These are for the nomenklatura.  Ordinary people don't play tennis in the Soviet Union, for the most part.

Typical trolley car.  This picture could have been taken in any city in the Soviet Union.



flowers and me

vodkas
Me in a sunflower field.  Sunflower seed eating is a national pastime.  Note the ubiquitous power lines.  The Donbas produces a lot of electricity for export to other regions.

While participating in a conference on coal regions, in 1992, I visited a vodka factory near Donetsk, one of many producing vodkas for export, including, you will notice, Stolichnaya.



vodka quality
champaign facory
A quality-control inspector.  This device upends full bottles of vodka and she watches for broken glass.

Not far from the vodka factory, in a town called Artemovsk, is a champagne factory located in a former gypsum mine where the conditions are perfect for bottling and aging champagne.  There is an interesting story having to do with a Nazi atrocity, which you can learn by clicking on the picture.



vodka lady with wines
wine tasting
Deep in the gypsum mine, racks of champagne age.  Every few months, a worker gives each bottle a sharp quarter turn causing sediment to come loose from the sides of the bottle and fall toward the neck.  After sufficient time, all the sediment has fallen into the neck.  Then, the neck is immersed in liquid nitrogen to freeze the wine in the neck with the sediment.  The cork is then removed and the pressure inside the bottle blows the frozen plug of sediment out, a new cork is inserted, and the bottle is shipped out.  The colorful lady is the deputy director of the vodka factory, who is good friends with the deputy director of the champagne factory.

The deputy director of the champagne factory hosting us for a wine tasting.  This was right after our vodka tasting at the vodka factory.  After the wine tasting, we packed up the leftover wine, a couple cases of vodka, and proceeded to a scenic pond in the country side where we spent the rest of the afternoon drinking in proper Soviet style.



vodka tasting
vodka feast
The deputy director of the vodka factory hosting our vodka tasting.

The vodka tasting.



mine 2
mine feast
A Donbas coal mine.

Reception at the Donbas coal mine.  Two weeks later, this mine blew up killing 56 miners.



ruin

boys with apricots
A church ruin in a village near Donetsk.  Look closely on the roof above the entrance to the right of the round structure and you will see a blond boy, maybe twelve or thirteen years old.  There were two other boys playing on the roof, as well.  I hope they survived their growing up years!

Village life.  These boys are picking apricots.




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Maintained by William N. Trumbull. Updated 1/1/05